Photos: Flavors are in the mix at West Bridge
West Bridge just opened in Kendall Square in May, and already the restaurant has become synonymous with its egg in a jar. Chef and co-owner Matthew Gaudet layers together rich potato puree, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, slow-cooked duck eggs, and crisp duck skin.
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A grilled veal chop is delicious, but it’s the combination of the meat with bits of dried olive and almond touched with brown sugar, with chard laced with candied orange peel, that makes it special.
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Arctic char is cooked with careful attention, with a crisp brioche crust and just the right amount of rareness at the very center. It is matched with tender artichokes and a complex, unexpected, bitter-sweet sauce of grapefruit juice reduced with basil, then reduced again and again. Like so many of West Bridge’s dishes, it feels light and clean.
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Lamb shoulder is among the restaurant’s large-format dishes -- whole roast chicken, bone-in rib eye with confit potato -- designed for sharing. The lamb is served in thick, juicy slices, with eggplant-fig puree and goat cheese.
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Springy little cider doughnuts served in a sack are adorable, but they bear no resemblance to what one thinks of as a cider doughnut.
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