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The Boston Globe

Business

On the Job

The art and work of life on the farm

Ann Starbard milks dairy goats at Crystal Brook Farm. She considers the goats her co-workers.

Jackie Ricciardi for The Boston Globe

Ann Starbard milks dairy goats at Crystal Brook Farm. She considers the goats her co-workers.

When the dairy market became unpredictable, Ann Starbard, proprietor of Crystal Brook Farm in Sterling, added a herd of goats to the farmstead. Making fresh chevre, or goat cheese, allowed her to quit her health care job and focus on operating the small Sterling farmstead full time. This was 15 years ago, and today Starbard is at the vanguard of the artisan cheese makers emerging throughout New England.

While the craft of cheese-making might seem fun, what’s the reality?

Raising goats and manufacturing goat cheese has to be approached like a business, or it won’t support the farm. There’s a tendency to romanticize farming, but working with goats is very demanding. My husband, Eric, and I operate every aspect of production, from raising the animals, milking them, making the cheese, and packaging it onsite.

Was there a big learning curve when you starting raising Saanen, LaMancha, and Alpine goats?

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I grew up on a dairy farm, so dairy animals are in my blood, and milking is something I’m very comfortable with. Generally speaking, dairy animals, whether cows or goats, are used to being handled — goats need to be milked twice a day — so you really get to know their personalities. What I like to say is that goats are my co-workers and I’m their human.

Making chevre is part art, part science. What’s the art part of it?

It takes three days to make fresh cheese, including the pasteurization process, blending of cheese culture and rennet, and draining whey from the curdling cheese. The art part of it is knowing what to add to the cheese and understanding that the milk differs with the season. In the spring, it will have a lighter bouquet, while in the fall, it’s richer. And like wine, goat milk has a terroir, reflecting the geography and climate of the goat’s environment.

What goes into goat management that most people don’t think of?

There’s no such thing as a sick goat: They are either dead or alive. Goats are very good at masking their illnesses, so you need to be aware of the slightest change to assess health problems. There’s more wiggle room with cows.

How have the heat and humidity affected their milk production?

Goats are ruminators, and with the heat and humidity, they don’t like to go out and eat. Rumination generates body heat as well. If it’s a hot day, I’ll put them in a shady pasture area and make sure they have plenty of water to drink.

With climate change, we are getting more invasive plants in our environment, but those are plants that goats like to eat, such as Japanese knotweed and poison ivy.

How do goats show their individuality?

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It’s like a high school class; there’s the class clown, the prima donna, the one that gets along with everyone. They haven’t read the no-bullying brochure, so they do have a social hierarchy as well. It’s interesting to watch.

Cindy Atoji Keene can be reached at cindy@cindyatoji.com.

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