The whales have decamped for warmer waters, the beaches are deserted, and Rocky Neck looks more like a ghost town than an art colony. So why go to Gloucester now? How about good music, great food, cool winter walks, and the chance to get to know this unpretentious Cape Ann city stripped of the summertime crowds? As befits its role as a fishing port, Gloucester sports a rough-and-tumble charm that’s softened around the edges by the presence of artists and plenty of local pride. Local folk are quick to remind you that Gloucester is an island — connected to the mainland by two bridges, but an island nonetheless. Adds a certain cachet, don’t you think?