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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

By the Glass

Gather round with American wines at the feast

No meal all year gets as much attention as the one tomorrow. For many families, it’s an opportunity to celebrate decades-old rituals. For others it’s a chance to see how far tradition can be bent without breaking, or even how far one can depart from everything conventional and still call it Thanksgiving.

For most of our history, cider and beer would have been the traditional accompaniment to the festive harvest suppers the Thanksgiving meal is intended to recall. It was only in the late 20th century, as Americans gradually shifted their allegiance from these homey beverages to wine, that a new fault line in national values emerged over the question of whether roast turkey and a boiled turnip were better served by a bottle of red or a bottle of white.

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