BY THE GLASS
To find affordable Burgundies, look to the byways
Today, whether at the village or cru level, wine from the Burgundy’s prestige core (the narrow chain of east-facing slopes that run almost due north-south from Dijon to around Chagny, known as the Cote d’Or), can be very expensive stuff indeed. Wines from top villages here are typically priced from $45 to $60; premier crus from $60 to $90; grand crus start at around $100 and ascend from thence to dizzying heights. Does the experience justify such rarified prices? You’ll have to ask the people who pursue them. For some, Burgundy isn’t just wine, it’s both an aesthetic and a kind of high moral principle.