Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff

The wood grill informs the menu at the Blue Room, now under new chef Robert Grant (Butcher Shop). In this appetizer, blackened tendrils of octopus twine with tender lettuce and fingerling potatoes, dressed in dill and mint vinaigrette.

Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff

Classic duck leg confit rests on a bed of homey lentils, with cubes of pickled beets lending color and tang.

Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff

A tall slab of braised pork shoulder, mahogany brown and meltingly tender, sits stately on mustard greens, crowned with celeriac remoulade.

Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff

Crisp-topped pan-roasted cod is served with salsify two ways (how often do you see this root vegetable prepared even one?), roasted and pureed, the dish brightened by vinaigrette that’s rounded out with piment d’espelette.