Dominican flavors rule Tropical Island
There is no bar at Dorchester’s Tropical Island Restaurant and Bar. Customers are told, with a motion to the soft drink cooler, that no alcohol is served at all. The food is described as “Spanish,’’ but that’s also not quite true. If the color scheme (peach, lime, purple, and plaids) doesn’t give it away, the mofongo balls will. The unstated tropical island here is the Dominican Republic. The men are big, the servings are huge, and it takes a while to figure out what is going on. Consulting the detailed menu will only draw a smile and an eyeroll from Rosa Brito, the curvaceous young manager. “It’s better just to ask me what we have,’’ she explains, “You can also look over here.’’ Brito is talking about the mini-steam table at the register, today featuring pollo guisado, spiced stewed chicken ($4.82), sauteed red onion, caramelized plantains ($1), and carne guisado, spiced stewed meat ($4.82). Another dozen dishes are available from the kitchen.