BY THE GLASS
High-fidelity wines from Italy’s Campania region
Winemakers want to claim terroir for their properties. But in the great majority of cases, they’re blowing smoke. Authentic terroir isn’t all that common. To put the problem in human terms, while we all have character, few of us are characters. This, in part, is why a recent tasting of wines from Italy’s Campania region proved so startling - and rewarding.