By the Glass: Next time you are in a restaurant where the wine list is taken a bit seriously, eavesdrop on what the sommelier has to say as she moves from table to table. The word you’ll hear over and over is minerality - or one of its numerous equivalents. It is as if American taste and sophistication grew up over night. It’s all rocks and stones, granite and chalk, limestone, tufa, slate, shale, schist. It is not just about fruit anymore. It is wonderful news for eaters, because fruit-driven wines, though often gratifying sipped on their own, have always been problematic to pair with food.