Kayana Szymczak for the Boston Globe

Ryan Kelly is executive chef.

Across the street from the Forest Hills T station, Washington Street in Jamaica Plain has the potential to become a little restaurant row. Leading the way is Tonic, a new restaurant that aims to be an upscale neighborhood joint — affordable and stylish at the same time.

The executive chef is Ryan Kelly, who has worked at JP’s Canary Square, sushi spot Haru, and Clio in Back Bay. His menu has French and Asian accents, and dishes range from comforting to more-experimental. Among the appetizers, one might find parsnip chowder with candied bacon and tempura clams, a green salad with tamari-chocolate vinaigrette, and Belgian ale-steamed mussels with frites. Entrees could include a burger with bacon mustard jam, a “faux pho” of seared tuna and vegetables with udon in a spicy broth, a molasses-brined pork chop with sweet potato fries, and seared scallops with parsnip puree. For dessert, if creme brulee or lemon tart don’t do it for you, there is always the vegan chocolate-filled Twinkie.

Tonic offers beer, wine, and cocktails such as a spiced appletini, gin muddled with cucumber and lime, and a mojito of the week. The room features caramel-colored banquettes, silver chandeliers decorated with a city skyline, and a long bar for settling into.

The best part: It’s just a few steps from the train.