Meatballs are all the rage with chefs right now, and one version at Gennaro’s 5 North Square in the North End would make any nonna proud. These are meatless, made with eggplant ($8.50 for 3). Chef Marissa Iocca took great care to get the consistency just right. Roasted eggplant is mixed with garlic confit and fresh bread that’s toasted, then crumbled (not breadcrumbs), Parmesan, and shredded mozzarella. They come with tomato sauce and have all of the characteristics of a traditional eggplant Parm, in a lighter flavor burst. Gennaro’s 5 North Square, 5 North Square (North End), Boston, 617-720-1050, www.5northsquare.com.  RACHEL TRAVERS