There is a dark star at the center of the room. Todd English — chef, owner, father, brand — sits at his bar, clad in a black suit, drinking a glass of red. His expression is brooding. He is at Olives in Charlestown, the restaurant that made him famous, burned in grease fires, and survived. After a two-year closure, in May it reopened. This should be a time for celebration, for glad-handing and gabbing with guests. But English sits alone.
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