Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

Celebrity chef Todd English has reopened Olives, the Charlestown restaurant that put him on the culinary map. It was closed for two years following a grease fire and has now been renovated.

Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

The new menu features clever presentations such as the "stuffed clam" English is preparing. It turns out to be a shell brimming with fried whole-belly clams over cornbread.

Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

A perfect, tiny lobster roll is served with a jar of intensely rich lobster-corn chowder and potato chips dusted with Old Bay.

Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

English prepared the lobster roll.

Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

Some Olives classics no longer feel particularly fresh, but they often still taste pretty darn good. For instance: the beef carpaccio, busy with big flavors.

Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

Marinated skirt steak is nicely cooked, served with short rib ravioli and corn pudding.

Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

Olives executive chef James Klewin (left) and Joaquim Filho worked in the kitchen.

Tamir Kalifa for The Boston Globe

Among the desserts is a vanilla souffle, admirably lofty but too sugary. Olives also features sweets from Curly Cakes, the cupcake bakery that is a project of English's daughter, Isabelle.