The Southern idea of meat-and-three finally comes to the Boston area. I’m not sure what took so long. The basic concept — choose from an assortment of meat dishes, then pick three sides — is a winner, particularly when it involves mains such as a kurobuta pork chop with pecans, ancho chili, and maraschino cherries; grass-fed country-fried steak with gravy; and fried catfish with cornbread and harissa. These are on the menu at M3, new in Somerville’s Davis Square, along with sides such as cheddar-jalapeno grits, apple-jicama coleslaw, sweet potato casserole, and pimento cheese fries.
M3 comes from restaurateur Jason Owens, who grew up in Nashville and is thus well acquainted with the joys of meat-and-three. Owens, the man behind South Boston gourmet market American Provisions, also opened Southie’s Local 149 and the Biltmore Bar & Grille in Newton. He’s demonstrated his ability to fill a neighborhood niche.
M3 also offers charcuterie; snacks such as fried cheese curds with red gravy, crab deviled eggs, and fried green tomatoes; and non-meat-and-three entrees including oyster po’boys, chicken and waffles, and shrimp and grits. Brunch brings biscuits and gravy, eggs and ham steak, and several kinds of hash. To drink, you’ll find wine on tap, wine coolers (Owens really is getting in touch with his youth), and plenty of beer in cans.
As for the Southern comfort, it doesn’t come in a bottle.
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