Food & dining

Short Orders

Karl’s Sausage now in Peabody

Grilled knockwurst platter with potato salad and sauerkraut at Karl’s in Peabody.

JOSH REYNOLDS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

Grilled knockwurst platter with potato salad and sauerkraut at Karl’s in Peabody.

JOSH REYNOLDS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

Robert Hans Gokey and his wife, Anita, produce almost 350 pounds of sausages a week.

Karl’s Sausage Kitchen & European Market, a fixture on Route 1 in Saugus since 1958, has moved to new digs in Peabody. Founding owner Karl Engels passed the shop to son Michael, who sold it five years ago to Robert Hans Gokey and his wife, Anita. “I’m just a humble sausage maker,” says Robert Gokey, sliding a rack of sausages from a state-of-the-art German smoker. Gokey, a former surveyor, trained for almost a year with
Engels. The couple produces almost 350 pounds of fresh and smoked sausages weekly ($7.99 a pound) in an array that includes knackwurst, weisswurst, bratwurst, nitrate-free frankfurters, beerwurst (like bologna, but with more spices), mettwurst, liverwurst, and their own bacon. “We use pork shoulder for our sausages,” explains Anita Gokey, “it has the perfect meat to fat ratio.”

Jams, mustards, German sauerkraut, herring, Scandinavian fruit syrups, rye breads, and cookbooks fill shelves. A new in-store cafe serves pastries, pretzels, sausages, schnitzel, potato pancakes, wine, and beer (Ayinger Oktober Fest-Marzen is on tap now). Sip one and snack on grilled wurst as you watch the sausage making. This is sausage you want to watch being made. Karl’s Sausage Kitchen & European Market, 1 Bourbon St., Peabody, 978-854-6650 or go to www.karlssausage.com.

Debra Samuels

DEBRA SAMUELS

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