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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Oak Long Bar + Kitchen embraces change

Take a look at old Boston. Watch it disappear.

On Saturday, the restaurant Locke-Ober closed for business after more than 130 years. This is as sad as it was inevitable, long predicted as the audience for old-school cooking and ambience dwindles. With it, so does the city’s stock of classic restaurants, wood-lined with bars elbow-burnished. We do not dress for dinner anymore. Aujourd’hui said au revoir in 2009. L’Espalier has seen success since relocating from its romantic Back Bay townhouse to a modern setting by the Mandarin Oriental. And then there’s the Fairmont Copley Plaza’s Oak Room, which this summer became Oak Long Bar + Kitchen, renovated and re-imagined.

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