The casual food of many nations — food trucks, street vendors, dumpling carts — is all the rage these days. There’s nothing new about the food, like irresistible and timeless tacos and porchetta and buns. What’s new is the trend of trying to domesticate street food by serving it in a restaurant or making it at home.
Susan Feniger, well known as one smiling, bespectacled half of “Too Hot Tamales” on the Food Network, opened her restaurant, Street, in Los Angeles in 2009. The cookbook that emerged from that venue is finger-licking, bone-sucking good. It’s also adventurous in the extreme, daring readers to go on a scavenger hunt for ingredients and dirty every pan in the kitchen.