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These caramels took a scientist to get right

Sheryl Julian for The Boston Globe

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There’s an art and a science to making good caramel. Former scientist Jason McCrea fiddled in his kitchen for three years to get the sugar chemistry just right and his artistry comes in intense flavors such as black lava sea salt, dark roasted mocha, and ginger fusion. McCrea’s will soon offer holiday spice, Highland Scotch, and a savory (“Love it or hate it,” says McCrea) rosemary black truffle caramel. The individually wrapped candies, which come in plastic tubes ($8.99 for 5 ounces), are slow-cooked, rich, and buttery, with a firm-chewy texture. It’s a sublime formula. Available at Fruit Center Marketplace, 10 Bassett St., Milton, 617-696-5274; Volante Farms, 292 Forest St., Needham, 781-444-2351; Wilson Farm, 10 Pleasant St., Lexington, 781-862-3900; or go to LISA ZWIRN

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