The group gathers at the Northeastern University fields off Columbus Avenue for games and appetizers before dinner at Bissonnette’s South End home. The chef prepares Thai sausage hot dogs (pictured), another provides squash soup, and guests shuck oysters. They pass mulled cider, flasks of bourbon, and Fernet Branca. The tradition began when Bissonnette left Eastern Standard, where he had worked on Thanksgiving, and suddenly found himself with a holiday. “What started small ended in 28 people sitting on beds, chairs, floors. A 600-square-foot apartment covered in gravy, broken glass, and joy,” he says. “The following year, we had to do it again.”