Newton has seen a string of new restaurants open recently. Waban Kitchen, which debuted at the beginning of the month, is the latest project from a chef-owner who knows the city well. Jeffrey Fournier has operated area favorite 51 Lincoln for five-plus years.
Fournier, who previously cooked at restaurants such as Pignoli, Excelsior, and the Metropolitan Club, turns out creative American fare at his new place. Plenty of restaurants claim this label, but Fournier’s food is more creative than most. Waban Kitchen serves the likes of lobster souffle dip with hand-rolled flatbread, tempura mushrooms with sweet-and-sour chili sauce, chocolate-braised wild boar ragout with a cornbread cupcake with goat cheese frosting, and roasted pumpkin and Parmesan ice cream. Simple standards get a makeover, too, such as five-spice roast chicken with black garlic mashed potatoes. Pie takes a starring role for dessert, from classic apple to honey custard with dark chocolate whipped cream and pomegranate reduction. Wine and beer lists offer some unexpected gems, and there is a short roster of boldly flavored signature cocktails.