Time hasn’t changed much inside Mistral since it opened 15 years ago. But time has changed around it. Then, things were flush. Boston’s fine-dining scene was blossoming. There were expense accounts and expensive wine lists on which to unleash them. Now the high-end restaurant is a rarer creature. Yet Mistral keeps on ticking. The food always meets a certain standard. If the Locke-Obers of the world are closing, does this make places like Mistral the new old guard?
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