At first glance, BoMA seems like yet another low-key, seasonal-local, modern-American South End joint, this one taking the place of the late beloved Pho Republique. There are burgers, steaks, and tacos on the menu, and the website’s “about” section has the obligatory homage to local produce, meat, fish, and cheese.

So. I’ll start with a cup of squash-parsnip soup and a craft beer brewed less than a mile away. Then I’ll have the sirloin-blend burger with Vermont cheddar and housemade ketchup and pickles. For dessert, why don’t I just die of boredom?