John Tlumacki/Globe Staff
Chef Ahmad Yasin.
We love when good things return to a neighborhood. Last fall, 12 years after closing his Syrian restaurant to focus on catering and cooking classes, chef Ahmad Yasin reopened Kareem’s Restaurant, much to the delight of Watertown diners, in his catering space. Weekends only, Yasin serves lunch and dinner in a cozy 16-seat space, featuring his updated versions of some classics. A new dish, royal beets hummus ($9), colors the popular chickpea spread with a deep raspberry pink. Kibbeh, traditionally meat kneaded with fine-grained bulgur wheat, is offered three ways: fragrant lamb kibbeh ($22); a vegetarian version ($18) with sauteed red peppers, pine nuts, and olive oil; and smoked salmon kibbeh ($15), a cold appetizer shaped into a dainty timbale, garnished with a rosette of the cured fish. All entrees come with a lemony fatoosh salad, green olives, warm pita bread, and homemade yogurt studded with diced fennel. Kanafa ($5), sweet white cheese baked between layers of shredded phyllo and drizzled with orange flower syrup, is a warm and comforting ending to this brightly flavored fare. Kareem’s Restaurant, 99 Common St., Watertown, 617-393-1880, www.kareems
restaurant.com. ELLEN BHANG