Surprisingly, a straight line runs from Hurricane Sandy to the traditional Spanish cochinillo, or roast suckling pig, now served on Tuesday nights at Brookline’s Taberna de Haro. Chef and owner Deborah Hansen says that a day after the big storm, her specialty meat purveyor called, begging her to take some surplus pigs; restaurant closings in New York had caused a glut. Hansen was thrilled. “It’s something I’d been wanting to do for a long time, because I have the perfect oven for it.” Now she’s got a standing weekly order for suckling pig. Cochinillo features crackling-crisp skin and “juicy white meat that’s so pure, it’s the quintessential pork,” Hansen says. It comes with roast potatoes and carrots ($25 per person). The popular dish is offered until it sells out. It’s on the menu Tuesdays till Hansen shuts the big oven off come spring. Cochinillo, Tuesdays only. Taberna de Haro, 999 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-277-8272, www.tabernaboston.com. JANE DORNBUSCH
A traditional Spanish cochinillo at Taberna de Haro
January 15, 2013
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