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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Dining out

Suspended in time, this Cambridge institution still serves good steak

Frank’s Steak House is not a place people go for a fine dining experience.

Pairs of 60-something women come on Sunday afternoon to share a bottle of wine and have an early bird special, maybe chicken Parmigiana or a 9-ounce sirloin with a salad, baked potato, ice cream sundae, and coffee for $13.95. At Frank’s, lonely guys play Keno at the bar while the waitstaff sings happy birthday to an 80-year-old woman with her adult children and teenage grandkids.

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