Dina Rudick/Globe Staff

The buttermilk fried chicken at Estelle's, with its crackling skin and rich sausage gravy, keeps the meal afloat.

Dina Rudick/Globe Staff

The Monte Cristo sandwich with fries is savory and warm, a good balance of its various flavors.

Dina Rudick/Globe Staff

Cajun cornmeal-crusted catfish is served on a bed of redbeans and rice.

Dina Rudick/Globe Staff

Chicken liver deviled eggs.