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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Cookbook Review

Celebrating Southern specialties

If “Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking” sounds like an ambitious title, that’s because it’s an ambitious book, years of work from preeminent Southern chef, author, and teacher Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart, Dupree’s producer on the Georgia Public Television series, “New Southern Cooking.” (At 720 pages, printed on glossy stock, it’s also a doorstop.) Published amid a multiplying crowd of Southern cookbooks, it aims to be authoritative.

Whether or not it is depends on what you’re looking for. Given the title, you might expect a number of elements to manifest in this volume: a cultural history of the South and its foodways; a collection of classic Southern recipes, along with notes on their provenance; a look at what “New Southern” cooking means and where it’s headed; a glossary of Southern ingredients and how to source them; an education in cooking from an experienced cook.

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