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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Food

Cheap meats with savory sides can be blockbusters

Optimists will tell you that out of every bad moment comes something good. They may be right. Think of all those cooks driven by the recession to choose cheaper cuts of meat at the supermarket. Those cuts may need an awful lot of TLC in order to become tender, appealing meals, but when they get it, almost nothing is as inviting or delicious.

The economy may be in recovery, but cheap cuts like short ribs and pork shoulder won’t be coming off the favorites list anytime soon. We’ve learned you can spend a lot on a beautiful beef tenderloin and serve it in rosy slices garnished with bright vegetables, but it won’t have half the flavor of a bony hunk of fork-tender meat served with a ladle of intensely concentrated cooking juices.

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