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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

dining out

Puritan & Company: inventive takes on traditional dishes

Dinner guests normally don’t expect to be served mustard gelato or swordfish pastrami in a New England farmhouse, but that’s what you get at Puritan & Company in Cambridge, where the chandeliers are made of Mason jars and stuffed pheasants watch over diners eating chef Will Gilson’s inventive takes on traditional dishes.

Gilson, who opened the popular Cambridge gastropub Garden at the Cellar in 2007, gets more high-end here, pairing crispy sweetbreads with shaved truffle, black trumpet mushrooms, and rich dots of bone marrow and mushroom mousse. But he knows when to keep it simple — grilling oysters in their shells and letting them swim in nothing but their own smoky, briney goodness — and when to have fun with stodgy throwbacks such as boiled dinner and hardtack crackers.

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