You can now read 10 articles in a month for free on Read as much as you want anywhere and anytime for just 99¢.

dining out

New ideas are steeped in Italian tradition at Giulia

“Julia?” asks my friend when I tell her I’d made reservations at a new restaurant outside Harvard Square. “It takes a lot of nerve to name a restaurant for Julia Child in her hometown. Is it French?”

It’s Giulia (for the record, named after the street in Rome where chef Michael Pagliarini and his wife and co-owner, Pamela Ralston, decided to launch the restaurant) and it’s Italian. But like that other Julia, it’s warm, welcoming, sophisticated without being pretentious, and very, very good. Pagliarini, formerly of Back Bay’s Via Matta, works in a style that is faithful to principles of Italian cooking while adapting freely to take advantage of seasonal ingredients and his own vision. He’s innovative, but like the best new ideas, his are clearly steeped in understanding and respect for the tradition.

Loading comments...

You have reached the limit of 10 free articles in a month

Stay informed with unlimited access to Boston’s trusted news source.

  • High-quality journalism from the region’s largest newsroom
  • Convenient access across all of your devices
  • Today’s Headlines daily newsletter
  • Subscriber-only access to exclusive offers, events, contests, eBooks, and more
  • Less than 25¢ a week