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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

dining out

Benvenuto! Prezza is back

The best seat at Prezza is not in the dining room or at the bar. It’s next to the restrooms in the back of the house. That’s where you witness the action coming from the kitchen. White plates fly by carrying mounds of pasta topped with sauce so red, it appears to be glowing. A roasted fish, with its head propped up against its filleted body, is shuttled to a table. Next up is a massive pork chop that looks positively prehistoric.

This is the scene Anthony Caturano set out to create 13 years ago when, as he explained in a recent note on the restaurant’s Facebook page, he opened Prezza as a 25-year-old chef with big dreams and little money. Today Prezza stands as a stalwart in the North End, a neighborhood where you can barely pace 10 feet before stumbling upon another upscale Italian restaurant with pressed tablecloths and attentive servers.

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