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Short Order

A lobster roll that tips the scales

The 14- and 7-ounce lobster rolls served by Paul Barker at Pauli’s in the North End.

Photos by Kayana Szymczak for the Boston Globe

The 14- and 7-ounce lobster rolls served by Paul Barker at Pauli’s in the North End.

Kayana Szymczak for the Boston Globe

Paul Barker.

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Pauli’s, a sleek Italian sandwich shop down narrow Salem Street in the North End, serves a hefty lobster roll ($14.99), the kind in the top-loading bun. “A lot of [places] do five, six ounces,” a man preparing the roll tells me. “We’re closer to eight.” It’s officially listed at seven ounces. The place also makes a lobster sub. Owner Paul Barker calls this the largest lobster roll in Massachusetts, in which you get double the meat. When I order the sub for one, the same man gives me a dubious look, “You sure? That’s a lot of lobster.” Yes, it really is, 14 ounces to be exact, just prime knuckle and claw meat, a squirt of lemon juice, and mayo on a fresh, grilled 10-inch hoagie roll. No lettuce or filler. As you might expect from a sandwich with that much decapod, the price tag is hefty ($28.99), but lobster arrives fresh daily from Globe Fish Co. at Marine Industrial Park.
The salad, in fact, is slightly bland, improved with salt and pepper, but it’s not drowning in mayo. It lets the lobster meat take center stage. Not that this much lobster can be overshadowed.
Pauli’s North End, 65 Salem St., Boston, 857-284-7064. www.paulisnorthend.com.
GLENN YODER

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