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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Cookbook Review

‘Kitchen & Co.’ by Rosie French and Ellie Grace

UK food bloggers and restaurateurs Rosie French and Ellie Grace (they own French & Grace restaurant in Brixton Village, London) have a devoted following across the Atlantic. Their vision of elegant rusticity brings to mind a slightly deconstructed, Canal House kind of cooking — dishes caught mid-delectation on sunlit tabletops, splatters and crumb-strewn forks only underscoring the pleasures of the table.

The book eschews the usual cookbook structure, organized by menu and with recipe headers that put whimsy in the foreground (“A hearty brunch for another working weekend,” “Kettle on, muffins in the oven”). Most of the recipes are not-quite-finished sketches of some very good ideas, which is fine if you’re the kind of cook who reads a recipe and then shuts the book and takes off running. For those of us accustomed to following instructions to the letter, it’s not a foolproof book.

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