Where to Bronwyn. Chef Tim Wiechmann is known for high-end, highly local innovation at his Cambridge restaurant, T.W. Food. But he’s of German heritage, and a few years back he told the Globe: “If it can be made into a sausage, I’m going to do it.” No lie. His brand-new Union Square restaurant, Bronwyn, showcases kielbasa, currywurst, bierwurst, and more.
What for A refined take on the German beer hall. Boston doesn’t have many restaurants featuring this region’s cuisine, and Bronwyn (named for Wiechmann’s wife) offers a rare taste of rebekuchen and knodel, sauerbraten and jagerschnitzel. Then there’s the beer list, which includes selections from Munich and beyond.
The scene Somervillains in plaid-shirt finery. Man dates. Beer geeks. Teutonophiles. There is music playing, but it’s almost too loud to hear what it is. In one room, tattooed women hoist steins at the bar and newly made friends debate the merits of different dishes seated on benches at rough-hewn communal tables. In the adjacent dining room, seating is more elegant: ornate wood chairs upholstered in velvet.
What you’re eating Sausage, of course: fat slices of kielbasa scented with coriander and garlic, or the standout, currywurst: rich, tender links tinged with mellow spice. Also at every table is the giant haus bretzel, a mahogany monster of a pretzel with apple mustard for dipping.
Care for a drink? The Wurzburger pilsner is the house beer, and those who want to work out the biceps can hoist it by the liter. The list also holds fascinations such as a lightly smoked lager and a grapefruit hefeweiss.
Overheard Much brutal mispronunciation of German. Much trying to figure out how big the different sizes of beer will turn out to be (hint: a liter is very big). Much trying to figure out which beer is which after servers deliver them to the table: “I can’t hear a thing. That beer had an ‘isch’ on the end.” A conversation about Greek mythology. One guy commenting: “Who knew Delaware had so many beers?” (That’s not what DE stands for here.)
Bronwyn, 255 Washington St., Somerville. 617-776-9900. www.bronwynrestaurant.com.