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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

food | travel

The full flavor of Brooklyn’s Bed-Stuy neighborhood

NEW YORK — Family-friendly Park Slope, ultra-hip Williamsburg, these are destinations for many visitors crossing the bridge from Manhattan to Brooklyn. But just a few train stops away from these popular neighborhoods is Bedford-Stuyvesant, an up-and-coming community with a burgeoning food scene. In Bed-Stuy, you are not likely to see Bugaboo strollers or hip boutiques. At least not yet. You will notice a few boarded-up buildings and plenty of bodegas. At night, you’ll see 20-somethings in red lipstick and thick-rimmed glasses emerging from the subway. This is usually a good sign, at least in terms of filling restaurants and unusual eateries.

If you know where to look, you’ll find a spot the size of a phone booth selling Caribbean breakfast sandwiches; a lovely, light-filled cafe specializing in Czech pastries, run by a sweetheart from Texas; a gastropub opened by a “Food Network Star” before he got famous; and some of the best brisket in Brooklyn, made by brothers who aren’t even Jewish.

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