Salad greens are gritty again, which is something to cheer about. It means that they were probably picked closer to home than the greens we’ve been getting from the West Coast — and they taste it. Keep a jar of balsamic vinaigrette on hand. In a rinsed out mayo or mustard jar, add a heaping spoonful of Dijon mustard, a clove of crushed garlic, and large pinches of salt and pepper. Fill the jar one-third full with balsamic vinegar, screw on the lid, and give it a good shake. Add the same amount of olive oil as vinegar and shake again. Use sparingly over a mixture of greens and store the dressing in the fridge. Red lettuce, green leaf lettuce, arugula, escarole: welcome back.