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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

dining out

In Needham, hospitality makes The Farmhouse stand out

A new Needham restaurant, The Farmhouse, is a reminder of how much the front-of-the-house experience matters. At this point in dining, USA circa 2013, what else is going to make dinner at a farm-to-table-esque restaurant stand out?

Not the name (a mere five miles away, in Newton, you’ll find Farmstead Table). Not the appealing decor, which offers a modern version of rusticity, with soft shades of paint, reclaimed wood from barns, drinks in Mason jars, and the requisite sculpture of a pig. Not even the food, uncomplicated, fresh combinations heavy on seasonal produce, some from area growers.

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