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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Croatian restaurant maintains longevity

SPLIT, Croatia — If you’re walking after dark along the poorly lit, cobblestone streets here, you might forgo searching for the restaurant Konoba Kod Joze. But stay with your plan: It’s there, opposite a little stone house. You’ll see a covered, split-level terrace that seats dozens of diners drinking bottles of a local wine called domace bijelo, and ordering seafood caught that day. Some of these customers have been coming here for decades. Kod Joze has maintained its place in Manusha, the oldest neighborhood of Split, since 1984.

Konoba Kod Joze sits at the end of the street across from two ever-changing businesses. At the moment, its neighbors are a tailor and a hairdresser, but the restaurant stays unchanged. Natives recommend the family-run establishment because they all go there and the prices are low. Tourists are sparse at Kod Joze and throughout Split. The second largest city in Croatia (with a population of about 180,000) and the hub of the Dalmatian coast is not exactly off the beaten path, but it hasn’t caught on as an American tourist destination the way its more popular Dalmatian sibling, Dubrovnik, has.

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