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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Cheap Eats

Balance cocktails with a stellar bar meal

Sister Mary and Take Your Top Off cocktails.

It did. It’s the door just to the left of Central Kitchen, in the bustle of Central Square. As you head up the stairs you may experience deja vu — have we been here before to see DJs and drink gasoline-strong vodka sodas, packed like sardines in the tiny lounge dubbed the Enormous Room? Well, you wouldn’t recognize the space. Two years ago owner Gary Strack, who also runs Central Kitchen, which is downstairs, and Firebrand Saints in Kendall Square, closed the Enormous Room and reopened as Brick & Mortar a few months later. The place has a serious bar program, and a small but delicious menu. Classic rock plays on speakers, communal high tops line the walls, and an elegant, C-shaped, hammered-copper bar is the crown jewel, sitting at the rear of the narrow, exposed-brick room.

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