Maybe once a year, if I’m lucky, I get to eat somewhere that blows my mind. I just got my taste for 2013. Which is why I’m going to tell you to get in a car and drive to Providence to eat at a tiny restaurant that doesn’t take reservations. It will be worth it.
North opened last September, a project from three cooks under 30 — they refuse to call themselves “chefs” — James Mark, Tim Shulga, and John Toon Chester. (Chester currently oversees the bar program.) They met at Johnson & Wales, which almost all North employees attended, and working at local spot Thee Red Fez.