August 06, 2013
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Essdras M Suarez/Globe Staff
Since Oleana opened in 2001, its cuisine has become iconic. Pictured, the deviled eggs with tuna and black olives added to the creamy yolk.
It is rare that a restaurant that makes it through a dozen years requires advance planning to get a reservation. Chef-owner Ana Sortun’s Oleana is one.
The “spanakopita” puts the spinach filling into trout instead of phyllo dough, topped with a luscious dollop of avocado, crisp cucumbers, and plump orange roe.
Falafel laced with spinach is set on flatbread against a hot-pink backdrop of beets and yogurt.
The impossibly juicy lemon chicken flattened under a brick, skin embedded with herbaceous, citrusy za’atar, and served over a Turkish cheese-filled pancake.
Sultan’s delight is beef glazed in tamarind and paired with eggplant puree and pine nuts.
A lovely, cooling dessert version of bisteeya (minus the fowl) with white chocolate labne, poached peaches, peach gelee, and basil syrup.
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