GLOUCESTER HARBOR — It’s a little before 7 a.m., and the edge of the sea is shrouded in thick fog. The air is cool and salty, following one of the hottest weeks of the year, and the water calm and glassy. Fishing boats lining the docks are barely visible; and then, slowly, a small white vessel pushes through the fog. The name Tonno (Italian for tuna) is scrawled on the side. Aboard is, arguably, a Big Tuna in his own right: chef Anthony Caturano, 39, owner of the busy North End restaurant Prezza. It’s the height of striper season and he’s been out fishing since 4 a.m., coming in only to pick up two passengers.
It’s becoming almost routine for chefs to hunt in forests for moss and mushrooms, and diners are often delighted to find menus studded with items foraged, fished, or otherwise gathered by the kitchen crews. Caturano, a solidly built Italian-American, isn’t the type to roam the woods looking for lichens. But three or four days a week in the summer, you can find him on his beloved sport fishing boat, zipping through the water, blasting country music and reeling in fish. The fruits of these endeavors could be on your plate at Prezza hours later.