Food & dining

SUNDAY SUPPER

Chicken with dried fruits, then pulled chicken sandwiches

Chicken braised with honey, lemon and dried fruits.

Food styling by Sheryl Julian; Essdras M Suarez/ Globe Staff

Chicken braised with honey, lemon and dried fruits.

Many years ago, an Israeli woman who was a splendid cook invited us to her house in the week between Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur. She served a Yemeni dish she learned from her mother, who was raised there. Frankly, the chicken emerged from the oven looking a little worse for wear. It had been cooked in a Romertopf clay pot and it didn’t look crisp and appealing. It had settled into the pot in an unattractive way. She cut up the chicken, passed some rice, and served a remarkably good meal. The juices around the bird tasted like a complex sauce, the meat was meltingly tender, and there were flavors of cumin and ginger, plenty of dried fruits, and a touch of sweetness. Here is the dish as I re-created it, cooked in a large casserole with a piece of parchment paper tucked on top, then the lid, so the bird can release its juices and make that multi-layered sauce.

The next day, take a few extra pieces of chicken that cooked with the big bird and shred them for pulled chicken sandwiches. Add a crisp, quick cucumber pickle and pile it all onto soft, eggy rolls. Neither dish will win a beauty contest. But they will win your heart.

SHOPPING LIST

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(For chicken, sandwiches)

4½ pounds chicken

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4 bone-in chicken thighs

4 pickling or Armenian

cucumbers

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Few sprigs fresh parsley

3 lemons

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon chopped candied ginger

1 cup dried apricots

1 cup golden raisins or mixed

raisins and dried cranberries

cup honey

½ cup chicken stock

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

4 eggy rolls (each about 4 inches)

Sheryl Julian can be reached at julian@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @sheryljulian.
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