October 22, 2013
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Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe
Ribelle is the first from-scratch outing for Tim Maslow, who worked through the ranks of New York's Momofuku restaurants. He then departed to reinvigorate his father’s Strip-T’s in Watertown.
The food at the Brookline restaurant is startling, inventive, and smart. Chicken with greens and potatoes tastes as if the flavor of several birds has been compacted.
Kayana Szymczak for the Boston Globe
Maslow's impressive team works hard and fast in the open kitchen.
Kale salad is served with oyster crema, padron peppers, and quinoa, ingredients that may never have come together in the same dish before.
Imagination is nothing without the proper amount of salt and acid. And that is what really makes the food at Ribelle wonderful and satisfying. Each plate is perfectly seasoned.
Lamb tartare showcases raw meat, tender and mild. Egg, sunflower seeds and sprouts, crisped pieces of mint, and radishes bring interesting tastes and textures to the composition.
What to pair with such food? Ribelle’s wine list is like no other in town, filled with offerings from small producers featuring more-unusual grapes. It also offers well-made cocktails.
And for dessert there is olive oil ice cream, salty and luxurious, with a chocolate topping that hardens on the frozen scoops: Magic Shell for adults.
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