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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

DINING out

Shanghai Social Club: A toast to American Chinese restaurants

Steamed bun filled with hoisin scallion duck.

In the matter of this dish, there is no contest. Shanghai Gate’s lion’s head reigns supreme. Shanghai Social Club’s version is hit-or-miss. One night, in a bowl of soup with noodles, the meatballs are dense as matzo balls at a bad diner. On another, they are great, served folded into puffy white steamed buns with bok choy to make spicy, satisfying little sandwiches.

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