Steamed bun filled with hoisin scallion duck.
In the matter of this dish, there is no contest. Shanghai Gate’s lion’s head reigns supreme. Shanghai Social Club’s version is hit-or-miss. One night, in a bowl of soup with noodles, the meatballs are dense as matzo balls at a bad diner. On another, they are great, served folded into puffy white steamed buns with bok choy to make spicy, satisfying little sandwiches.