Food & dining

short order

New spuckies from Nebo

Joanne Rathe/Globe Staff

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The chic Nebo Cucina & Enoteca recently started serving lunch, and some of the offerings are called spuckies, an old-fashioned, local term for a sub or hero. These are not the humble spuckies of corner sandwich shops, but reimagined versions by sisters Christine and Carla Pallotta, who run the Italian eatery, which recently moved from the North End to the Waterfront. Quality fillings are layered inside toasty ciabatta. One is the Roma ($16), in which tomato jam spiced with coriander, cumin, and cinnamon is spread on the bread and topped with slow-roasted porchetta and a sunny-side-up egg. Skinny, crispy onion rings add crunch. The combination of flavors and textures is irresistible. A Lombardia (above, $17) contains golden beer-battered white fish and Italian slaw, the bread moistened with hot-chile aioli. Autostrada ($15), reminiscent of the sandwich the sisters took to grade school, is loaded with high-end Italian cured meats slathered with pepperonata, a relish made with four types of peppers, olives, and anchovies. Come when you’re ravenous; spuckies are sizable. In fact, you can barely clamp your mouth around one. “Squish it,” Carla advises. Nebo Cucina & Enoteca, 520 Atlantic Ave., Waterfront, Boston, 617-723-6326.

ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

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