The blogger Clotilde Dusoulier (www.chocolateandzucchini.com), now on her third book, is not a vegetarian. But as a resident of Paris, and onetime San Franciscan, she loves vegetables in that romantic, no-holds-barred way that’s not surprising to encounter among those who live around well-stocked urban farmers’ markets.
In “The French Market Cookbook: Vegetarian Recipes From My Parisian Kitchen,” blanch-roasted new potatoes (the smaller the better), come out appealingly wrinkly and golden. A green bean salad, colorful with red rice, secretly holds almond butter for a clingy, creamy lemony dressing, and crunch from chopped almonds. Herbal eggplant tabbouleh is a variation on the traditional cucumber-and-tomato version. The eggplant is a good flavor sponge, though the skin gets in the way of surrendering to the experience.