Food & dining

short order

Braving a new yogurt frontier: with veggies

Consumers might be forgiven for thinking there are no new yogurt frontiers to explore. Blue Hill — the farm-to-table mini empire that includes two restaurants (in New York City and Pocantico Hills, N.Y.), a farm in Great Barrington, and an online market — has managed to give the ancient food a most unexpected twist. Blue Hill’s savory yogurt ($2.79 for 6 ounces) comes in six vegetable flavors: beet, parsnip, carrot, butternut squash, sweet potato, and tomato. A first taste induces a kind of dizzying cognitive dissonance. It’s yogurt that’s neither plain nor sweet. Carrot is startlingly tart; sweet potato and beet have a touch of vegetal sweetness, but none of them could stand in for dessert. You might not down a whole cup for a quick lunch, but as a condiment, a dressing for slaw, or a dollop for soup, it has a certain logic. O brave new world, that has such yogurt in it.

Available at Whole Foods Markets.

JANE DORNBUSCH

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