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quick bite

With Pastoral, Naples comes to Fort Point

Kayana Szymczak for The Boston Globe

Where to Pastoral, a new restaurant serving pizza, pasta, and more in Fort Point.

What for An authentic taste of Naples. The wood-fired pizza oven is imported from there, and chef-owner Todd Winer was recently certified as a pizza maker by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, protectors of true Neapolitan pies.

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The scene Pies are fired in the red-tiled oven as co-workers, friends, and young couples gather. The aesthetic is industrial, with warm touches: concrete floors, exposed pipes, garage doors, a communal farm table. In the dining room, a baby is crying. At the wood bar, every customer is wearing glasses with thick black frames. At a high top, a man and woman play with their phones, not looking at each other. Friendly staffers wear checked button-downs and banter with guests. Acquaintances run into one another and talk local politics, juggling cardboard pizza boxes containing takeout. The soundtrack: Charles Bradley, the Rolling Stones, Laura Vane & the Vipertones, Peter Frampton.

What you’re eating Pizza, the blistered crusts topped with the likes of pepperoni, fresh mozzarella, and crushed tomato, or duck sausage, mushrooms, taleggio, and garlic. Or try radiatori with tomato and milk-braised veal, rigatoni Bolognese, or artichokes with mint and orange. Mozzarella, burrata, and ricotta are made in house, and gluten-free pizza and pasta are available.

Care for a drink? There is beer. There are cocktails. Have both at once with a beer cocktail like the Pastoral, made with Lambrusco, maraschino liqueur, beer, and cola. It tastes like a grown-up’s cherry Coke.

Overheard Talk about Hubway, neighborhood development, orange wines, and basketball. “Why don’t they have cocktail wars as reality TV?,” a bartender wonders as he and his mates hustle to make drinks. “Hello, ma’am. What can I get you, ma’am?,” a staffer inquires. “He just ‘ma’am’ed you. Twice,” points out the woman’s friend. A lively discussion of alternate possibilities follows: “Hey, lady!” “Yo, woman!” A couple contemplates ordering dessert — cookies, ice cream, or both? “We can make an ice cream sandwich!” “I learned it from my mother, and she’s a very nice old lady,” a woman is saying. “You’re gifted, right?,” one friend asks another. Someone downs a glass of water: “Hydration is key.” A woman dismantles and devours an artichoke with impressive thoroughness. “I eat artichokes like some people eat lobster,” she says, wiping her fingers daintily.

345 Congress St., Fort Point, Boston. 617-345-0005.

Devra First can be reached at Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.
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