Most people, even good cooks, leave wrangling the deep-fat fryer to professionals. “Fried & True,” a new collection of recipes from Lee Brian Schrager, founder of the Food Network South Beach, and food writer Adeena Sussman, seeks to change that.
None of the recipes are Schrager’s own. They are the work of chefs from all over, big names like Yotam Ottolenghi and Thomas Keller, and proprietors of one-room chicken shacks across the South. As an endearingly obsessive chart in the back indicates, some are single-dipped, some are double-dipped, some are meant for skillet-frying, others for deep-frying, some for whole chickens, others for specific parts. It’s a glorious and unapologetic mosaic of poultry and crust.